Question: 1998 bayliner boat with electric problems?

(Posted by: on 2010-08-31 05:58:22)

I have 1998 bayliner serenity with 3.0 L. , it keep blowing the 15 amp ignition fuse it will run for a few minutes sometimes then blow fuse. It might blow several before it will start again it seems to get worse when it gets hot. Earlier this summer the igintion module went bad I, put a new automotive module on , is this the same as marine could this be part of my problems? When engine is running it runs rough, it ran fine before the module went bad. Do i have multiple problems? what is the proper timing procedure for the 3.0 L engine

Posted by: Richard C on 2010-08-31, 07:37:17

I had to think a few seconds.......Get the marine module..........but it sounds like an electrical problem, and it night have caused the old module to fail. They don't like extraneous spark.....think shorts. So, it's a wiring or component failure. These are often hard to find. Start at the Battery terminals, looking for corroded wires and bad connections, then go to each sender on the engine to make sure wires are well insulated. Then go to the dash panel.......look at any added equipment wires, for things like bilge pumps and GPS units.......If you can isolate the problem it's easier to find but the blown fuses are a good indicator. Unplug the module or you risk blowing it. Now all marine mechanics are good at this type problem, but some are really good, find them.

Posted by: bullibe on 2010-08-31, 06:56:46

Get the correct module and replace the automotive one. Marine engines are a lot different than car engines.

Posted by: James F on 2010-09-01, 05:57:54

First of all, boat motors are not very different from automotive motors at all. You do want to use the marine parts though, they are spark protected. You, have a short in your ignition system. Tracing it isn't that hard. Your ignition system wiring is purple. Check all of the purple wiring on the engine with the key in the run position. Feel the wires, they will get hot before blowing the fuse. Start with the fuel pump relay (if you have the electronic pump) This is a Mercruiser engine, correct? If so... As for the ignition timing, that is controlled by the ECM. All you can set is the base timing. First you need to put a jumper wire between the two white leeds of the distributor, Then bypass the neutral safety switch. (unplug the switch from the harness and plug the two harness wires together) The base timing is dependent upon what the serial number is on your engine. OL340000and below the base timing is 1 degree BTDC. OK001520-OL097000 the base timint is 1 degree ATDC OL340001 and up the base timing is set at 2 degrees ATDC

Posted by: squeezie_1999 on 2010-09-02, 14:04:18

Most probably the ignition model blew again. Automotive ignition parts, especially ignition modules are very different ffrom their marine counterparts. Marine engines run at almost full throttle most of the time, while autos run at 10 -20% of full out most of the time and never run at 100%. Using an auto part, even it if fits and works initially, can be dangerous, especially in the ignition and fuel systems... an ungrounded spark or a drop of gas is harmless in a car but, can result in an explosion in a boat's confined engine compartment. I'll bet if you replace the module with the proper one, your problems will go away.